Edinburgh Area Scouts International Expeditions
Edinburgh Area Scouts International Expeditions |
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Mongolia 1997
Expedition Report
Foreword A word from the Expedition Leader
Why Mongolia? About Mongolia Training Weekends Fund-raising
Reconnaissance Logistics Advance Party Base Camp
Free Time The Beginning and the End! The Projects
I am delighted to have the opportunity to introduce this report and wish to congratulate everyone who was involved in this very successful project.
There is no doubt that the expedition to Mongolia was of considerable benefit to the people of Ulaanbaatar and to the fledgling Scout Association in Mongolia. The aspects that were particularly worthwhile in Project Middle Earth were the successful completion of all the service projects and the co‑operation and involvement with Mongolian Scouts.
There is also no doubt that a major benefit of the project was the development of our own young people. They planned and trained thoroughly before going and they succeeded in raising the finance required. Most of all, however, every one of them developed personally from the experience of living and working in a culture which is so different from their own. 1 am sure that this experience will have a considerable beneficial effect on them and their life in the future.
1 am pleased that the EASIE (Edinburgh Area Scouts International Expeditions) team will continue to promote international understanding through such major service projects with Venture Scouts and young Leaders in the city in the future. I wish them all well.
Once again, well done to all concerned!
Kenneth Thomson Edinburgh Area Commissioner |
In 1994 George Devine received a phone call from the Scottish International Commissioner for Scouts to tell him about the imminent arrival of Munk, the Mongolian International Commissioner. "You always wanted to take Scouts to China ‑ how about Mongolia instead?"
Very soon after that, a conversation with a fellow Scouter, Fee Sutter, revealed that a Mongolian doctor was staying with her. Mongolia was beginning to present itself as the venue for the next expedition. After meeting with Munk at the Jamborette at Blair Atholl, it became apparent that there was good reason to go to Mongolia, as there was plenty of work to be done there. Scouting had only been introduced in 1990 and was already beginning to flourish.
Having decided on the destination next came the leaders. During the summer of 1994 the first few leaders were invited to join the team and by the end of the year most of the leader team was in place. In July 1995 an introductory feasibility visit was made to Mongolia and when the participants returned the first team meeting of all the leaders and Venture Scouts was held. |
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Mongolia is landlocked and measures 1,566,000 sq. km in area, around three times the size of France. The population is 2.25 million with 25% of the people living in Ulaanbaatar, the capital and largest city. Outside the city, the southern third of Mongolia is dominated by the Gobi desert, with the central region of Mongolia being steppe grassland. In the far west there are mountains, but overall Mongolia is one of the highest countries in the world with an average elevation of 1580m (5000ft).
Apart from the period of conquest under Ghengis Khan when it was far more extensive, Mongolia used to be twice its present size, owning parts of Siberia that are now under Russian control, and Inner Mongolia, before it became a province of China.
The temperature in Mongolia varies from +25 c to +30 c in the summer and –25 c to –40 c in winter. Humidity is very low with over 260 sunny days a year and very little rainfall. In 1991, 20% of the population had a standard of living below the minimum level. That figure has become worse over the last few years. The rate of inflation in 1992 was 583% and in 1996 the minimum living cost per family in urban areas was US$13 per month.
After 65 years of domination by the former Soviet Union, Mongolia took its first steps to independence in 1990 when, after a series of protests and strikes, the government amended the constitution to allow multiparty elections to be held in July 1990. Ironically the communists won, mainly due to strong support in the rural regions where there was often only one candidate ‑ the communist. Since then elections have been held in 1992 and 1996, and Mongolia is slowly coming out of the shadow of its larger neighbours and opening up to the Western World. |
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Throughout the two-year preparation period prior to the expedition, the team met regularly for training camps. Each camp focused on different skills that would be required on the expedition.
The first training camp was in September 1995 and coincided with the Chief Scout's visit to Edinburgh. It incorporated team-building activities so that everyone in the expedition could get to know each other. Our next camp was held in the Lake District and also involved team building exercises, including falling into half frozen ponds while trying to build a rope bridge!
Training weekends were held every six to eight weeks. As each one approached we would look forward to meeting everyone again, and once together we would discuss how near we were getting to the departure date.
Over the two‑year period we learnt many skills. These included bricklaying, mixing concrete, roofing, woodwork and demolition! We were also recognising people's strengths and limitations; this way we could make use of their strengths and help them develop other skills.
The camps were held at a variety of locations, with the majority at Bonaly, the Edinburgh Area Scout Campsite. This was the base for most of our skills work, from where we went to Hunters Tryst Primary School to practise bricklaying, felted a training hut at Bonaly and built paths in the Pentland hills. The then Chief Scout, Garth Morrison, also visited us and admired our work.
One of the most memorable camps for many of us was held in the Trossachs. We were sent on a hike of around twenty miles and were given instructions to stop at a specific location to wait for someone to pick us up. However, this person was never going to turn up! But they didn't tell us that. We had an envelope that gave us the emergency co-ordinates, which led us back to our campsite. Each group was impatient and opened the envelope, mainly because of the vampire midges!
On another weekend we practised our pioneering skills to help prepare us for building the assault course at the International Children's Centre. Each group had to design and build an obstacle. It was definitely a case of 'easier said than done' especially as there was an inch of snow lying on the ground. It gave us good practice of working in difficult conditions, which came in useful for the rainstorms. in Mongolia.
Nearer to the end of the two years it became a much more hectic and a lot of time was spent organising visas, passports and making sure that everybody had the correct injections required for the expedition. We also had to think about what personal equipment we would need to take with us, especially as there was a weight limit for the entire group and we needed to take tents and medical supplies with us on the plane to ensure they arrived. |
Over the two years our target was to raise £2000 per person to cover the cost of travel, accommodation (tents), food and materials required for the projects. Over half of this was needed to cover the costs of travelling.
A fund-raising committee was set up to co-ordinate efforts between the teams. A variety of different events were organised, ranging from discos and race nights to duck races and raffles. It was a case of every small amount adding up to a bigger amount. It was certainly a daunting task and required a lot of effort from everybody in the expedition team.
There were a few major fund-raisers which were the focus of our attention, the biggest one being the "Cycle to Mongolia" which involved cycling at the Gyle Shopping Centre, the Commonwealth Pool and on top of the Waverley Market on successive weekends on mountain bikes placed on stands. The distance between Mongolia and Scotland is 5,500 miles. Despite not quite 'getting there', we managed to raise over £2,000 in public donations and £2,500 in personal sponsorship, covering a distance of 4655 miles whilst also greatly raising public awareness of the expedition.
One of the more adventurous fund‑raisers was a sponsored "Three Peaks Challenge," where the highest peaks in Scotland, England and Wales had to be climbed in less than 24 hours, starting at Snowdon in Wales, moving on to Scafell Pike in England and finishing at the foot of Ben Nevis after a gruelling climb and descent. This challenge was completed in just over 21 hours and Scott Goddard was interviewed live on Radio One FM by Kevin Greening at 7am on a Sunday morning - not surprising if you missed it!
Another major fund-raising event was bag packing at Safeway over the festive periods. These again raised a lot of money (£1,000 in one day alone) and people are always happy to see Scouts packing their bags when they are in a rush and have a lot of shopping.
We also helped out with and ran stalls at the City of Edinburgh Lion's Club annual fete. There were various stalls including hamburger, ice cream and face painting stalls run by ourselves and Scout Groups in the Edinburgh Haymarket District.
Some funds were raised by letter writing, from trust funds, and we were fortunate enough to receive an Edinburgh Council Exchange Grant as a result of the Mongolians visiting last summer. Our last big fundraiser, just before our departure, was filling and handing out information packs to the 3,000 delegates at the ESHRE Conference at the Edinburgh International Conference Centre.
Also included in fund-raising were personal and corporate sponsors. In recognition of their donation, sponsors became 'Friends of E.A.S.I.E.' which entitled them to regular newsletters and a copy of the expedition report. Corporate sponsorship was varied and donations came in the form of equipment, food or services as well as financial help. A list of supporters is included at the end of the report. |
In July 1995 four leaders made the journey to Mongolia for the first time. George Devine (then Expedition Leader,) Scott Goddard, Lesley Peebles-Brown (Scottish Commissioner for International Scouting) and her husband Chris, spent two weeks in Mongolia. The purpose of the trip was to forge links with the Scout Association of Mongolia and assess the feasibility of taking forty-two Venture Scouts and leaders to Mongolia. This first visit proved to be very positive.
At the beginning of August 1996, Anne Masino (then Deputy Expedition Leader,) Mike Masino (Training Co-ordinator) and Fee Sutter (Base Camp Manager) made a follow up visit to Mongolia. The purpose was to arrange the projects to be undertaken during the expedition, to assess the food and health situation, and to look at possibilities for mini-expeditions.
Their visit coincided with the last few days of the First International Scout Jamboree of Mongolia. They attended this at the request of Esumnunkh, the Chairman of the Scout Association of Mongolia (SAM), which gave them time to gather their strength for the final round of meetings that they were to attend in the following days. These meetings included several with Mongolian officials, District Governors and a member of the Mongolian Parliament. Although not apparently very productive they generated goodwill among the officials, which is very important within the Mongolian culture.
Other meetings were held with the British Ambassador and several other Britons working out there. These contacts proved invaluable, both in the lead up to and during the expedition. The outcome of this visit was that we were to undertake two projects - the renovation of a building for the use of the SAM as a training centre, and the building of a play area at Niaramdhal International Children's Centre, in whose grounds we would be camping. As the main project was in Ulaanbaatar we needed to find somewhere outside but close to the city to camp and Niaramdhal was perfect. The building of the play area would be a thank you for the use of the land.
With regard to food and health, it became apparent that we would need to take most of our own food and medical supplies. Although a lot of basics were available, they were in short supply, and as a large group we felt it would be best to take as much as we could from the UK. |
The job of logistics was to arrange to get everyone and our equipment to Ulaanbaatar. Where? This was the question that most people asked when contacted!
Flights
Air France was chosen as they were the cheapest and they agreed to arrange the flights between Beijing and Ulaanbaatar, which eased a lot of the potential problems. The timing of the flights enabled us to have one night in Beijing on the way out and two nights on the way back, along with a night in Paris. This suited us as it gave us a chance to adjust to the time difference and the weather conditions on the way out and gave us a well-earned rest and an opportunity to sightsee on the way back.
The Container
Equipment for use on the projects and at base camp had to be transported to Mongolia. After a brush with the Russian Mafia it was felt that we would be happier if Allied Pickfords were in charge of shipping our 20ft container. The container was to leave in mid May and during the lead up to this everyone was busy writing to companies and asking friends for donations of equipment and food.
One sunny Thursday in May everything seemed to slot into place, six boxes of pasta arrived in the post at 7.00 am. We had borrowed a 7.5 tonne truck for the week to collect all the equipment - five weeks supply of shortbread, biscuits and jam; a complete field kitchen and linoleum from Kirkcaldy; hard hats and safety equipment from Motherwell. Things were now beginning to take shape.
At this point we were extremely lucky to receive the use of warehouse space at Newbridge. When we saw the quantities of material gathered we began to have doubts as to whether it would all fit in the container as it seemed just to keep on growing by itself
Departure day for the container arrived and we had a team waiting for the arrival of the transporter, all the equipment neatly stacked ready to load, even the first nights meal in Mongolia strategically placed to be loaded in last. However, a white Transit van rolled up from Channel Tunnel security, and everything had to be checked. Our food, which was all paletted and ready to be loaded, had to be unwrapped; this of course made us extremely happy as we had just finished wrapping it all up!
Three hours after the lorry arrived our container was packed and ready for its long journey into the unknown. After 10 days and many phone calls and faxes our container made it to Belgium. This was the last confirmed sighting for a very long time. |
Four of the expedition team travelled out two days prior to the main party. Their task was to clear the container through customs, assess the condition of the project and generally prepare for the arrival of the rest of the team. The problems started before even reaching Mongolia, two of the four bags went missing in Beijing. Later we learnt that they had gone via Copenhagen. Was this a taste of things to come?
"On arriving we were told that we had two major problems. The first that our container had not yet arrived and the second was the project, The Solongo Childrens' Centre had already been completed by Japanese Scouts with the backing of the Japanese Government.
We had to locate the container as soon as possible, as without it the team could not start work on the projects (or eat!). We visited the Mongolian office of the carrier and were told that they had no knowledge of it, but their London office confirmed that they expected the container to arrive in two days time. The Scout Association of Mongolia then received a telephone call confirming that our container had been deposited in the wrong container yard Before it could be moved we had to get customs clearance; this took six hours and we were rewarded with a piece of paper the size of a bus ticket.
How do you shift a container 15 miles? Easy - hire a lorry and a mobile crane! So after a very long day, the logistics manager, suffering from a wobbly tummy, and our container finally made it to Nairamdhal.
The second problem was as time consuming as the first. This involved travelling around Ulaanbaatar looking at various projects that would be beneficial to SAM and the children of Mongolia. After looking at many different sites we decided on three projects that we thought had the greatest merits:
These two days were very eventful and, as it turned out, very necessary to ensure that the number of problems were minimal when the main party arrived in Mongolia." |
The expedition party was split into six teams, each taking it in turn to spend four days working in base camp. This duty was, in many ways, the hardest job because it was a very long working day and a short night. This is an example of our daily routine:
06:30 ‑ base camp team rise to prepare breakfast. 07:00 ‑ prepare lunch for those going off site. 07:30 ‑ ring bell to get everyone up for breakfast. 07:40 ‑ serve the porridge. 08:15 ‑ wash the dishes. 08:30 ‑ two members of the team leave to go shopping. 08:45 ‑ still washing the dishes. 09:15 ‑ wash the dish towels - collect firewood ‑ hand pump water through purifier. 10:00 ‑ clean ger* ‑ tidy site and slacken tents. 11:00 ‑ go and collect the meat, eggs, butter and potatoes. 11:45 ‑ prepare lunch for those on site. 14:00 ‑ wash the dishes. 14:30 ‑ finally some free time for afternoon nap. 15:30 ‑ collect wood ‑ pump more water ‑ prepare dinner. 17:30 ‑ shower ‑ if time! 19:00 ‑ dinner. 19:45 ‑ wash the dishes. 20:15 ‑ still dishes ‑ tidy ger again. 21:00 ‑ free time. 22:30 ‑supper. 23:30 ‑ bed??? 06:30 ‑ rise and shine for another full day.
(* ger ‑ traditional Mongolian nomadic tent)
One of the daily tasks was to go into town and buy the food that was required for the next day. This usually consisted of a trip to the food market where if you wanted to buy mutton you were in luck! There was a limited variation of vegetables which could be bought along with other basic foods like bread, potatoes and eggs.
The base camp duties had to go ahead irrespective of the weather and other encounters you may have on the way, as Andrew Paterson describes:
"Lindsay and I were in Ulaanbaatar food shopping for the day. After doing the shopping our translator flagged down a private car/taxi and agreed a price of 200 tugruks per km. His driving was fairly standard for most Mongolians as he weaved around the road, trying to pick the best line avoiding potholes ‑ whilst declutching and coasting to conserve fuel. Our driver spoke Mongolian (obviously!), Russian, reasonable German and about three words of English so we tried to converse using sign language, the few words we had in common and by pointing at things. He was trying to learn English so he put on his 'learning English' tape for us to listen to.
We discovered what each other did ‑ I said that I was a student and he told us that he was married with a child. This was his day off ‑ normally he worked for the police. As we left Ulaanbaatar on the road to Nairamdhal we got onto the subject of traditional food and drinks, including alcohol. I mentioned that I'd tried the vodka and liked it but hadn't tried the Tiger Beer, at which point the driver, having expressed a dislike of beer, asked if I'd tried airag, (pronounced "eye‑rak,') a traditional Mongolian drink made of fermented mares milk. I replied that 1 hadn't tried it.
A couple of miles down the road the driver pulled over and shouted at a ger 100 yards from the road A discussion followed while Lindsay and I exchanged worried looks. He then turned the car around, drove across a ditch and up to the ger. Worried looks then turned to positive concern! Our driver got out of the car and signalled for us to stay where we were. He then had a discussion with the owner of the ger - the eldest of the men there - at which point one of the sons was seen dragging a dog away and tying it to a nearby telegraph pole. We were then signalled to get out of the car and follow our driver into the ger
The ger was more basic than the one at our site as it didn't have any ornate carvings or floor It was sparsely furnished with the stove situated in the middle of the ger We were beckoned to one of the beds and sat down on it, while the driver was given a stool to sit on and sat nearby. We sat and watched whilst the owner cleaned a bowl, which held about a pint, and then filled it full to the brim of airag. He then handed the bowl to me. Having heard that it was respectful to drink it all I put it to my lips and with some trepidation drank it all. It tasted like a mixture of cheap wine and sour milk. It is definitely an acquired taste.
The bowl was then refilled and given‑ to Lindsay who was not too keen. I encouraged her to take a couple of mouthfuls at least. Lindsay did this and the bowl was handed back for topping up. Meanwhile I asked the driver if these people were close relatives of his. He replied that they weren't. No, they were just some random people who happened to own a ger and had some airag. This was true Mongolian hospitality ‑ you'll never be turned away from a ger Our driver was then handed the bowl, which he drank. However, he noticeably left a small amount at the bottom of the bowl. He then turned to me and asked me if I liked it. I politely answered yes. Unfortunately something was lost in translation as he was really asking me if I wanted more. I had finished the bowl, indicating that I would, if offered take some more. I received another bowl and drank it but this time leaving a small amount at the bottom of the bowl to make sure I didn't get offered any more. We then left and got back into the car and returned to Nairamdhal to tell everyone about our experience. " |
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Mini Expeditions
The three days away from the projects were a welcome diversion and it gave the members of the expedition the opportunity to experience a little more of what Mongolia has to offer.
We travelled to a tourist camp at Hongo Haan, on the edge of the Gobi desert, where we lived in gers and went horse riding, Mongolian style. The riding was enjoyed by all, but especially by one of our members whose horse decided to join a herd of wild horses and took off, leaving the rider with the choice of going along for the ride or throwing himself onto the dusty track; he took the second option!
From Hongo Haan we visited the ancient capital of the Mongol Empire, Kharakhorum and Erdene Zuu Monastery which is also situated there. The roads in Mongolia are extremely basic and mostly dirt tracks. Because of this, there were many problems with the minibus, such as burst tyres which had to be dealt with enroute (no AA or RAC in Mongolia!) It was also difficult at times to obtain fuel, and it was not unknown for the driver to trade vodka with locals for diesel siphoned from other vehicles. These things all helped to make us realise how difficult life in a developing country can be.
Friendships
Having Mongolian Scouts and leaders living and working with us gave us a chance to get to know these extremely friendly people better. Everybody got on well from the start.
Working together on the projects proved that there are many ways to communicate with each other regardless of the language barrier. For instance, a whole life story can be told, provided there is enough time! However, the three interpreters provided by SAM certainly made communication a lot easier.
The expedition has cultivated many friendships that will span the miles for many years to come. Already plans have been made between the young people to visit each other again in the future, as soon as enough money, has been raised!
Nadaam
A 'Nadaam' is a festival where the three manly sports of archery, wrestling and horseriding are contested. The national Nadaam. is held in Ulaanbaatar every year and, as we were fortunate to be in the country at the right time, we took time out to visit this. We went with the children from the International Childrens Centre, which meant we shared their police escort to the national stadium where the opening ceremony took place.
The stadium was a riot of colour and activity as dancers, mounted soldiers, wrestlers, singers and parachutists all celebrated the start of the festival. It was an extremely hot day, 39.6 degrees centigrade, the hottest on record. We later had an opportunity to view the archery and horse riding as well as a special show at the Theatre of Culture. This comprised of singing, dancing and musical items all displaying' the culture of Mongolia ‑ a wonderful glimpse of a magical country.
China
Our chosen route to Mongolia took us through Beijing. As it was most unlikely that many of us would have the opportunity to visit China again, we were determined to make the most of the afternoon and evening we had, despite the heat and jet lag we were suffering.
On the way out most of the expedition visited the Forbidden City, the ancient home of the Emperor of China. This is a magnificent example of Chinese architecture. Apart from the sheer size of the place, the attention to detail on most of the buildings is amazing. After visiting the Forbidden City we then visited Tiananmen Square. It was extremely busy and very big. We felt a bit uneasy as the handover of Hong Kong had taken place only a few hours earlier and the celebrations were still going on.
On the return journey we visited the Great Wall of China. We left our hotel early in the morning to begin the three hour drive to the Wall. When we arrived the crowds of tourists were unbelievable, and you could hardly move. We finally got on to the Wall where we had the option of an easy, but crowded route, or a quieter, but harder walk. Most of us decided on the latter option, but still fell foul of the many souvenir sellers.
Leaving the Great Wall, we went to a porcelain factory where we could buy yet more souvenirs and see how these magnificent artefacts are made. As it was to be our last night before we headed back to Europe, we went for a traditional Peking Duck banquet. The meal was excellent as there was so much to eat and drink. We also made a small presentation to Anne and then left the restaurant and headed into town.
Personal Shopping
During our stay in Mongolia we were given a day off to go shopping for souvenirs and to explore Ulaanbaatar. The main things that people bought were Mongolian hats, quaichs, pictures and ornaments. The shops in Mongolia were very different from the shops in Britain, as there was no real shopping centre. The shops tended not to be very well marked and were tucked away in side streets. However the Government store was situated on the main street and sold almost everything you could buy in Mongolia but tended to have slightly higher prices than the other shops.
There were quite a few markets in Ulaanbaatar and these are where the Mongolian people carried out the bulk of their own shopping. The biggest market was held on a Sunday and was a weekly event that is a large part of the Mongolian culture: The whole market was "hoachin with folk and extremely frantic. You could buy anything here from paint to clothes and music. |
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To most people Mongolia brings up thoughts of a lost world with nothing for miles and miles, a world of dinosaurs and a world where you wouldn't be surprised to bump into Tintin on your travels. We went to Mongolia with a mix of feelings. Perhaps a sense of adventure with a little trepidation. An expedition member describes their first thoughts when they first arrived in Mongolia...
"We arrived in Ulaanbaatar on a driech, misty afternoon. 1 had to remind myself that we had finally arrived and had not by some twist of fortune ended up back in Scotland. The Mongolian Scouts met us at the airport and insisted on taking our bags from us and loading them into the waiting truck. They were wearing uniform and the distinctive Mongolian headwear. It was my first taste of the enthusiastic and friendly welcome that our hosts were to offer us.
As we mode our way towards the city, bouncing about in an old bus, it was obvious why the horse is still such a popular form of transport in Mongolia (and this was one of the best roads in the country!). We spotted our first gers not long after leaving the airport, as well as people walking about wearing the traditional dell. We had not arrived back in Scotland after all.
We passed through the outskirts of the city on our way to the International Children Centre where we would be staying. The skyline was dominated by the large power station, belching smoke into the atmosphere. The contrast with the green plains and hills that surround Ulaanbaatar was stark. All of the pipes to and from the power station ran above ground (and over the road) and were heavily logged. This was because the extreme weather means the freezing and thawing of the earth would cause them to crack.
We crossed over the Trans‑Siberian railway and headed out of town towards our campsite that would be home for the next four weeks. The camp was at the head of a beautiful green valley with magnificent views. We were obviously going to enjoy our stay."
Above everything else almost everyone was surprised at how much they enjoyed the trip. It didn't all go smoothly or according to plan, but it would have been unrealistic to expect that. At the end of the day all the problems were overcome with four very worthwhile projects being completed, helping the young people of Mongolia, while strengthening our links with the newly formed Scout Association and making new friendships and reinforcing existing ones.
"By the end we were almost inseparable from the Mongolian Scouts. The last night in Mongolia was the most emotional night of my life." |
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Copyright © 2002 E.A.S.I.E.
